Diana Vreeland was a woman who created her own world. Naturally, she was attracted to like creatures. During her tenure as the editor-in-chief of Vogue, Vreeland tapped Ninette Lyon, a food- and art-obsessed Frenchwoman, journalist, and award-winning cookbook author, to cover cuisine . . . creatively. The result was “A Second Fame: Good Food,” a series about the “menus, recipes, kitchen amenities of celebrated people.” The column debuted, not inauspiciously, with Pablo Picasso, and went on to feature a cast of luminaries, including Alexander Calder, Cecil Beaton, Man Ray, and Ray’s onetime muse, the photojournalist Lee Miller (then the be-aproned Mrs. Roland Penrose).
Beginning this week, we will open up the Vogue archive every Thursday to share this extraordinary series with you. We debut with the Academy Award–winning director Federico Fellini and his wife, the actress Giulietta Masina, who supply their homey recipes for sangria, salsa verde, and spaghetti all’ Amatriciana with nary a Felliniesque flourish. “You see,” explained this son of a strict, health-conscious mother. “I am still impressed by my childhood.”
Photographed by Irving Penn, Vogue, January 1, 1966
Federico Fellini’s Sangria
1½ bottles strong red wine
2 tablespoons Strega
2 cups orange juice
1 cup lemon juice
6 thin slices of orange, cut in half
4 slices of lemon, cut in quarters
3 peaches, peeled and sliced
4 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons brandy
2 cups soda water
Mix everything in a large pitcher. Serve very cold with some fruit in each glass.
Giulietta Masina’s Salsa Verde
3 hard-boiled eggs, chopped
1 bunch parsley
1 clove garlic, minced
1½ cup oil (olive or peanut)
1 tablespoon vinegar
1 anchovy filet, minced
Chop the parsley until very fine. Add eggs, garlic, and anchovy. Continue chopping until very smooth. Add remaining ingredients. Add salt to taste. A tablespoon of crumbled, stale white bread may be added to this sauce.
Giulietta Masina’s Spaghetti all’ Amatriciana
1 pound spaghetti
4 quarts boiling water
Giulietta Masina explains: “I take a pound of spaghetti for four people. Put salt and spaghetti at the same time in the boiling water: Salted water is dense and slow to come to a boil. Cover the pan until water boils again, stir the spaghetti so it does not stick together, and cook with the lid half on for 12 minutes. Drain the pasta and shake in the collander under cold water, then return to a heated casserole, add the sauce, and mix it by shaking it forward and backward, from side to side, then round and round….”
5 tablespoons olive oil
1 big red onion
2 tablespoons water
1 small hot red pepper
7 ounces streaky salted pork or bacon
4 tablespoons dry white wine
½ pound fresh tomatoes
3 leaves fresh basil, when available, or 1 teaspoon Pecorino cheese, grated
Heat oil in a pan, sauté the thinly sliced onion but do not let it get brown. Add water, red pepper and cook for a few minutes, then put in the bacon cut into pieces of about 1 inch. When it is crisp, cover with wine, and let it reduce completely. Add tomatoes, peeled and coarsely cut up, a little salt, and simmer only for 5 minutes: tomatoes must stay firm. Just before serving, add chopped basil, and mix with spaghetti. Serve with grated Pecorino cheese.
A scene from Fellini’s Amarcord (1973)
Photo: © Courtesy of New World Pictures/Everett Collection
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